Outlets, switches & dimmers in South Orange County

Small devices, done to code, working the way the box promised.

Device work is the bread and butter of a service call, and it is also where the most shortcuts hide. Back-stabbed connections that loosen with the seasons, GFCIs protecting nothing, smart switches installed without the neutral they need and left blinking.

We add circuits where a room genuinely needs one — the home office that trips the bedroom breaker, the garage freezer sharing with the lights. We correct GFCI and AFCI protection to current code, in the right order on the circuit. And we install smart switches wired with a neutral so they work the way the app promised, every time.

USB-C receptacles, exterior weather-resistant devices behind in-use covers, childproof tamper-resistant swaps — a running list is welcome. One visit through a whole list is the cheapest way to have it done.

What this covers

New dedicated circuits — offices, garages, appliances
GFCI and AFCI corrections, tested rather than assumed
Smart switches and dimmers, wired with a neutral
USB-C and tamper-resistant receptacle swaps
Exterior receptacles with in-use covers, rated for the coast
Dead or half-hot receptacles diagnosed and repaired

The craft argument. A receptacle swap looks the same from the outside whether it was done right or not. The difference is on the terminals — wrapped and torqued versus stabbed and hoped — and it shows up years later as either nothing at all or a warm wall plate.

Get a straight answer

A photo by text is the fastest way to a real number. Small jobs get priced the same day.

(949) 702-0385 Text a photo

CSLB #354550 · C-10 Electrical · Licensed since 1978

Questions people ask

Why do my smart switches need a neutral wire?

The switch itself is a small computer, and it needs a trickle of power even when the light is off. Homes here from the 1980s on usually have a neutral at the switch box; older ones sometimes do not, and there are workarounds — the honest answer comes from opening the box.

My outlet stopped working but the breaker is fine. What is it?

Often an upstream connection — a back-stabbed receptacle earlier in the circuit that has let go, or a tripped GFCI hiding in a garage or bathroom. It is a ten-minute diagnosis with the right tester and a maddening afternoon without one.

Can you add an outlet where there is nothing nearby?

Almost always. Power gets fished from the nearest sensible source, and the quote says exactly where the wire will run and what patching, if any, to expect.

1978

Year the C-10 license was issued. Still current and active.

Generations on the truck. Clyde qualified it, Shane runs it.

C-10

The only CSLB classification that legally covers electrical work.

Same day

Text a photo and you get a real answer, not a call center.